May 26 - Burgos, Villalbilla, Taradajos, Rabe to Hornillos: 13 miles
Early morning leaving Burgos I got turned around (again) which was typical not only for me in cities, but for many other pilgrims as well. Guidebooks warn pilgrims that city markings are more obscure which indeed was the case, especially if one is walking before sun-up. Walking in the commercial suburbs was dreadful, as was occasionally walking along busy highways, which most pilgrims agreed was the least favorite and most dangerous part of the Camino.
I was happy to leave the noise and bustle of the city. After 11 K – 6.6 miles I stopped for hot tea, an orange and granola bar. No internet or Wi-Fi here. I was getting the hang of being a pilgrim and enjoyed hearing birds and seeing the greening of crops such as wheat, oats and barley.
Away from traffic it was now safe to pull out my I-Phone. I listen to Juan’s Walk spirit-filled album. The heart-felt solemn songs helped me realize the Camino was an analogy for life - Expect the unexpected. There would be trials, tears, pain and disappointment, as well as joy, beauty and gratitude.
On the other hand bagpipe music loaded on my I-Phone helped me keep a faster pace for walking. Sometimes the beat was too fast and my right foot would talk back to me. With my foot pain the elevation was daunting, even though it wasn’t that steep. Heading up and onto the arid Meseta and the endless fields it must not have been exceptionally hot today because I don’t remember suffering in the heat unlike in a few days to come.
Corien from Holland, whom I met yesterday in Burgos, caught up with me and we walked the last half together arriving in Hornillos about 1:30. It was surprising to me how much further I could walk with a companion - 13 miles with ease today. Corien has a daughter in college and an 18-year-old son who is autistic. He lives at home, attends public school and works part time in a grocery. Her husband is not retired. She said her Camino is a result of a difficult year. I did not probe. On the same day her husband suggested she should consider walking the Camino, a close friend suggested the same thing. She took that as a sign. She is involved in the Taize community, an ecumenical monastic order from Protestant and Catholic traditions, which every year in a different location. When it was held in Holland she helped with its organization.
Early morning leaving Burgos I got turned around (again) which was typical not only for me in cities, but for many other pilgrims as well. Guidebooks warn pilgrims that city markings are more obscure which indeed was the case, especially if one is walking before sun-up. Walking in the commercial suburbs was dreadful, as was occasionally walking along busy highways, which most pilgrims agreed was the least favorite and most dangerous part of the Camino.
I was happy to leave the noise and bustle of the city. After 11 K – 6.6 miles I stopped for hot tea, an orange and granola bar. No internet or Wi-Fi here. I was getting the hang of being a pilgrim and enjoyed hearing birds and seeing the greening of crops such as wheat, oats and barley.
Away from traffic it was now safe to pull out my I-Phone. I listen to Juan’s Walk spirit-filled album. The heart-felt solemn songs helped me realize the Camino was an analogy for life - Expect the unexpected. There would be trials, tears, pain and disappointment, as well as joy, beauty and gratitude.
On the other hand bagpipe music loaded on my I-Phone helped me keep a faster pace for walking. Sometimes the beat was too fast and my right foot would talk back to me. With my foot pain the elevation was daunting, even though it wasn’t that steep. Heading up and onto the arid Meseta and the endless fields it must not have been exceptionally hot today because I don’t remember suffering in the heat unlike in a few days to come.
Corien from Holland, whom I met yesterday in Burgos, caught up with me and we walked the last half together arriving in Hornillos about 1:30. It was surprising to me how much further I could walk with a companion - 13 miles with ease today. Corien has a daughter in college and an 18-year-old son who is autistic. He lives at home, attends public school and works part time in a grocery. Her husband is not retired. She said her Camino is a result of a difficult year. I did not probe. On the same day her husband suggested she should consider walking the Camino, a close friend suggested the same thing. She took that as a sign. She is involved in the Taize community, an ecumenical monastic order from Protestant and Catholic traditions, which every year in a different location. When it was held in Holland she helped with its organization.
Once we arrived in Hornillos a dog, which looked to me like a malamute, nosed around outside the albergue as pilgrims lined up our backpacks outside the door waiting for it to open. I had read about packs of wild and dangerous dogs in years past along the Camino and one of the many reasons walking sticks are advised. Naturally I was hesitant anytime I saw a dog, although I never had an encounter with those packs. I suspect they have been rounded up over the past few years for the safety of pilgrims.
Frank (Melbourne, Australia) was already sitting on the steps looking out to the street outside the albergue with a cheap bottle of wine he later finished off himself. After carrying the nice (and heavy) bottle of wine for two days in my backpack from Granon I decided to be bold and while seated in the courtyard announced I would offer to share my bottle with anyone within earshot who could produce a corkscrew - a unique line on how to meet people. Don (Biarritz, France and Florida) produced a corkscrew. We managed to find glasses. Corien joined Don and me in the mini party sitting on the outdoor steps. Soon Frank shared the last of our wine.
I was assigned a top bunk and was one of two women in the room with ten men that night, although I never felt unsafe then, or at any time along the Camino. After showering and refilling my Platypus water bag, I continued to listen to my on-going novel on the IPhone before taking a short nap.
Frank (Melbourne, Australia) was already sitting on the steps looking out to the street outside the albergue with a cheap bottle of wine he later finished off himself. After carrying the nice (and heavy) bottle of wine for two days in my backpack from Granon I decided to be bold and while seated in the courtyard announced I would offer to share my bottle with anyone within earshot who could produce a corkscrew - a unique line on how to meet people. Don (Biarritz, France and Florida) produced a corkscrew. We managed to find glasses. Corien joined Don and me in the mini party sitting on the outdoor steps. Soon Frank shared the last of our wine.
I was assigned a top bunk and was one of two women in the room with ten men that night, although I never felt unsafe then, or at any time along the Camino. After showering and refilling my Platypus water bag, I continued to listen to my on-going novel on the IPhone before taking a short nap.
Our foursome agreed to meet later that evening across the street at a small café having a long waiting line. We dressed for dinner. Meaning we showered and put on a clean shirt. We laughed a lot with everyone’s stories. The 10.5 Euro pilgrim’s meal offered a varied menu. Regardless of my earlier experience lentil soup was my first course. Next was baked chicken, crusty bread, bottles of vino tiento and ice cream for dessert. The others chose beef stew or meat balls. White asparagus was offered as one of the regions specialties.
It was a wonderful evening in this one-café-village packed with other pilgrims telling tales and enjoying life. That was the communal experience I had hoped for every evening.
It was a wonderful evening in this one-café-village packed with other pilgrims telling tales and enjoying life. That was the communal experience I had hoped for every evening.